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Whether you’re reviewing how to sharpen drill bits by hand, checking the correct drill bit sharpening angle, or deciding on the best way to sharpen drill bits for your operation, the objective is the same: re-establish the cutting edge correctly and keep the drill’s geometry balanced.
Solid drills can be sharpened by hand using a bench grinder or a belt sander. Manual sharpening is effective when you hold the right point angle, apply correct relief behind the edges and keep both flutes the same length.
A dedicated drill sharpening machine removes most of the technique from the process and is the quickest route to repeatable results. After sharpening, a honing stone or fine grit abrasive can be used to remove burrs and refine the cutting edges.
Yes, you can sharpen a drill bit whether it’s HSS or solid carbide, provided the cutting edges aren’t chipped past the margin, and the flutes are still in good condition.Â
HSS drills: HSS is quick to recondition, but because tool cost is relatively low, it’s worth weighing up whether hand sharpening drill bits is the most cost-effective option for small or heavily worn bits. For larger diameters, specials, or batch use, sharpening is usually justified.
Carbide drills: Carbide tools are higher value, so drill resharpening is often a cost-effective choice. Sharpening will remove coating from the cutting end; if drills aren’t recoated, tool life and heat resistance will reduce, particularly in tougher alloys. Carbide must be sharpened on a diamond wheel with light, controlled contact to avoid micro-chipping at the edge.
Holding the correct drill bit sharpening angle is what gets the drill cutting properly again. Point angle affects centring, thrust load, and chip formation. Two angles cover most applications:Â
118° point angle: standard general-purpose geometry.Â
135° point angle: stronger point, better for harder materials and most metalwork, commonly used with split points.Â
|
Application/material |
Typical point angle |
|
General purpose drilling |
118° |
|
Mild steel/cast iron |
118° or 135° |
|
Stainless/tougher alloys |
135° |
That’s the typical geometry for anyone focused on how to sharpen drill bits for metal.Â
Re-sharpen as soon as the drill stops cutting cleanly. Waiting until a drill is fully dull increases heat, damages margins and shortens tool life.Â
Light, regular drill bit grinding is normally the most efficient approach, especially in metalworking applications.Â
Indicators that a drill bit needs sharpening:Â
Reduced cutting performance or excessive heat.Â
Rounded, polished or chipped cutting edges.Â
Poor hole finish, oversized holes or wandering.Â
Higher thrust required when drilling by hand.Â
Faster wear when drilling harder materials.Â
Coolant no longer controlling temperature effectively (rubbing rather than cutting).
Bench grinder (fine, dressed wheel).Â
Water pot for cooling.Â
Eye protection and gloves.Â
Optional drill-point gauge or angle guide.Â
Inspect the drill: If edges are badly chipped or margins are worn away, replacement may be the better option.
Mark the edges:Â A quick marker line helps you see where material is removed.
Present the first edge: Hold the bit at its original point angle, with the edge level to the wheel.
Grind lightly and roll: Touch the wheel, then roll your wrist up and back to create clearance behind the cutting edge (primary relief). Too little relief causes rubbing, heat and poor cutting. Too much relief weakens the edge and can lead to chatter or early failure.
Cool frequently: Use short passes only and dip after every second or two of contact. Overheating softens HSS and can damage carbide.
Repeat on the second edge: Match the angle and length exactly so both edges are symmetrical.
Check the chisel edge: Looking end-on, the web should sit centrally. If it’s offset, remove a small amount from the longer edge
Deburr and test:Â Clean up with a honing stone or fine abrasive and test on scrap material.Â
If you’re looking at how to sharpen a drill bit with grinder or how to sharpen a drill bit with an angle grinder, the geometry requirements don’t change, but hand control matters more.Â
Key points:Â
Maintain the original point angle.
Grind in short, light passes to control heat.
Create relief behind each edge rather than grinding flat.
Check edge length regularly to keep both sides equal.
How to sharpen drill bits with a file is a workable stop-gap for small HSS drills when no grinder is available. It is not a replacement for proper grinding and is not suitable for restoring full geometry on production tools.Â
Method:Â
Clamp the drill securely in a vice.Â
File along the cutting edge following the existing angle.Â
Remove slightly more material behind the edge to restore relief.Â
Repeat evenly on the second edge.
A drill sharpening machine gives repeatability without relying on manual technique, particularly useful for carbide tools, split-point geometry, or batch sharpening.Â
General steps:
Set up the sharpener on a stable surface.Â
Choose the correct wheel for HSS or carbide (carbide requires diamond).Â
Set the point angle (typically 118° or 135°).Â
Clamp the drill centrally in the chuck/collet.Â
Set grinding depth to remove only what’s needed to restore a clean edge.Â
Sharpen both edges evenly using the machine’s guide.Â
Inspect and test on scrap material.Â
If your sharpener supports split-point grinding or web thinning, use these features for metal drilling. Web thinning is particularly useful on larger drills, as it reduces thrust and improves centring after resharpening.Â
For many users, yes, especially where drills are reconditioned regularly.Â
Benefits:Â
Consistent angles and geometry.Â
Faster than manual sharpening for multiple drills.Â
Extends tool life, particularly carbide.Â
Better centring and reduced drilling force.Â
Considerations:
Up-front cost.Â
Some setup/learning time.Â
For low-cost HSS used occasionally, replacement may still be more practical.Â
If you sharpen drills frequently or run carbide in production, a sharpening machine typically pays back quickly.Â
Watch for:Â
Unequal edge length: causes oversize holes, poor centring and drift.Â
No relief (flat grind): drill rubs instead of cutting, generating heat and rapid wear.Â
Overheating HSS: heat discolouration (blueing) indicates softened cutting edges.Â
Off-centre web/chisel edge: increases thrust and leads to a wandering drill.Â
Trying to hand-sharpen split points: difficult to reproduce consistently; use a jig or sharpener for production metal drilling.Â
Sharpening restores performance and helps control tooling costs. You can sharpen a drill bit by hand using a bench grinder for sharpening drill bits, a belt sander, or a file (for minor emergency touch-ups), if you maintain the correct drill bit sharpening angle and keep both cutting edges equal.Â
For consistent results at speed, particularly on carbide drills, split-point geometries, or when focusing on how to sharpen metal drill bits, a dedicated sharpening machine remains the most efficient option. Regular resharpening reduces downtime, maintains hole quality, and extends drill life across demanding applications.Â
At Cutwel, we stock a wide range of hole making tools for every stage of the job. If you’re unsure which drill geometry, coating, or point angle is right for your application, our technical team is on hand to help you get the best results.Â
Speak to Cutwel for matched tooling and practical engineering support, so you can choose, run, and maintain your drills the best way for performance, consistency, and tool life.
